Old-school Italian
Pleasing, familiar selections at inveterate Menlo Park eatery

by Dale F. Bentson

Carpaccio, 1120 Crane St., Menlo Park Map location Phone: (650) 322-1211 Hours: Lunch: Weekdays 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Late lunch: 2-5 p.m. Dinner: Mon-Thu 5-9:30 p.m.; Fri-Sat 5-10 p.m.; Sun 5-9 p.m. Price code: $$$ Restaurant Features: Reservations: Yes Credit Cards: Yes Parking: Yes Alcohol Served: Yes Take Out: Yes Banquet: Yes Highchairs: Yes Outdoor seating: No Noise Level: Medium Bathroom cleanliness: Above Average

It is no accident that Carpaccio has been a fixture in Menlo Park for the past 21 years. The ambiance is warm and inviting, the waitstaff friendly and knowledgeable, the food tasty and satisfying. The bar scene is lively and habitues are of a certain age; at least no one that I saw was wearing a baseball cap backwards. Of course, as the evening wears on, the barflies morph younger.Carpaccio is a decidedly Italian affair; that is, the menu mimics what Americans have defined as Italian fare. This isn't necessarily bad and it is what the restaurant's customers demand and expect, yet it is removed from the experience of contemporary Italian cuisine.If I am to criticize anything about Carpaccio, it is that old-school notion of spaghetti and meatballs, veal piccata and cannelloni, zabaglione and tiramisu. While the menu is periodically updated and weekly specials allow the kitchen some creativity, the longer a restaurant exists, the more locked into its ways it becomes because its loyal patrons demand it.Five years ago, I reviewed essentially the same dishes at Carpaccio, save for a few newer entries. Every other year, managing partner Ciya Martorana visits a different part of Italy returning with new enthusiasm and ideas. I suppose those ideas are more reflected in the weekly specials than in upending the established order of things.One such special, forno-legna asparagi grantinati ($10.50), an antipasto, was irresistible with spears of oven-roasted green asparagus, cambozola cheese, and shallot relish, all drizzled with sherry vinaigrette.Cambozola is a cow's-milk cheese that is a hybrid of French-triple cream cheese and Italian Gorgonzola. Triple-cream cheeses quickly separate when warmed, but the kitchen got it just right and the eloquent flavors of tender vegetable and rich dairy lingered happily on the palate. Regular-menu antipasti included bruschetta ($7.95), a gargantuan portion of grilled, garlic-smeared sourdough bread buried under an avalanche of chopped fresh tomatoes, basil and olive oil. It was plenty for several people as an appetizer, overwhelming for one person. The four hunks of bread were overkill enough but the blanket of tomatoes devalued the offering. There is no "right way" to serve bruschetta but I would have preferred just enough tomatoes and basil to top the bread and stimulate, not diminish, my appetite.Grilled polenta with wild mushrooms ($8.50), size-wise, was a more reasonable portion. The polenta was nicely toasted around the edges without being dried out or charred. The mushrooms were meek but the veal reduction with Madeira added intrigue to the plate.Also successful was the bombetta di parmigiano ($10.75), a mini parmesan souffle served warm with baby spinach, arugula, and shaved asparagus in a champagne-walnut oil vinaigrette. The airy souffle was creamy, bitter and sweet and exuded lovely aromatics across the table.Carpaccio offers a dozen versions of pasta. I favored the house-made pappardelle ($15.75). The flat pasta was tossed with black pepper, sun-dried tomatoes, shallots, mushrooms and a splash of Chianti for good measure. The dish was vibrant and hearty, perfumed by the shallots, pepper and wine. The pappardelle was cooked al dente, which gave the dish texture. Spaghettini con polpette della nonna ($14.25) was a monster portion of spaghetti with "grandmother-style meatballs" interlaced with marinara sauce. It wasn't bad, just bland with nothing to distinguish it other than the size of the portion. I left with over half the serving nestled in a doggie bag.The kitchen graciously split our pasta orders or we wouldn't have been able to indulge in so many courses during our visits. The gregarious waitstaff was quick to oblige any request, and pacing from the kitchen was perfect. For main courses, the veal piccata ($19.90) was delicious. The medallions of veal were fork-tender and sauteed with the acidity of lemon and capers, giving the meat a jazzy lift. Veal is, by far, the most popular meat in Italy. As I don't want to touch off another foie gras-styled, ethical-food-consumption argument, suffice it to say that Carpaccio uses Privimi veal from Wisconsin, the best and most tender veal available in the U.S.Petto di pollo alla griglia ($16.25) was a grilled chicken breast paillard (pounded very thin and cooked quickly) atop wilted greens with roasted vegetables. The chicken was fleshy and rich and was balanced by the earthy greens that accompanied. Fresh sole, petrale al pomodoro ($18.95) was sauteed with tomatoes and garlic. It wasn't the best choice. The fish was overmatched by the acidity of the tomatoes. The dish needed something else, seafood or vegetable, to offset the sharpness. While petrale is oft used in bouillabaisse and cioppino, those dishes incorporate many more ingredients to counterbalance the tomatoes. The desserts were predictable but the servings huge and tasty. Zabaglione ($7.95) was frothy and custardy, the egg yolks, sugar and Marsala in harmony. The slab of tiramisu ($6.95) was enough for four. Other than lacking flavor from the rum-soaked ladyfingers, the cake was gooey, sweet and luscious. Studded with bits of chocolate, the warm bread pudding, budino di pane caldo ($6.95), was an ambitious affair with brandy sauce and a scoop of vanilla gelato. I could scarce eat a fraction of it and would be tempted to go to Carpaccio and order just dessert. The portions make them almost meals in themselves. Besides offering a full bar, Carpaccio serves nearly two dozen wines by the glass. The wine menu is broad-based with a focus on California and Italian wines. Prices are fair. Most of the labels are familiar, though. I would love to see more Italian boutique wineries represented. Carpaccio would be a great venue to introduce us to the great things that are currently afoot in Italian vineyards and wineries. Carpaccio has survived the vagaries of the restaurant business for over two decades by serving what its devoted customers want. There is a familiarity to the surroundings, the menu, and the service. In these uncertain times, what could be more welcoming?